Do We Need Them


Studs..do we need them?  We did hear some chatter ( a while ago) from Quebec about banning studs, but that was a mis-wording I guess.  If fact they promote studs for safety.

Definitely…..performance orientated riders will have studs.    Yet the rep for Bracebridge Yamaha has a turbo 154″ monster and claims he does not use studs.   A lot is going to depend on your riding location as well as machine type.

Another concern is single and two ply tracks.   If you do stud, especially on single ply..make sure the backing plate just comes flush with the track..so don’t let in pull deep into the rubber.   You may not want to stud outside the rails as the force generated there is greater.  You need to keep an eye on studs they can come loose.

Check your track condition as well.  HERE is a helpful informative guide.   Read the track warnings , if any, as well..many are stamped “don’t stud.”   If you have a single ply track be sure to mention that to your vendor.  He may recommend a larger backing head diameter.

Personally, I have been in the non stud group until a week ago when I helplessly slid backwards down the ice incline to the steel snow bridge in Bracebridge.   Next day I called old race sponsor at Woody’s and said OK sign me up.   It is going to add maybe 10 pounds of static weight to the track alone…which equates to about 50 pounds or more in motion

I think a lot has to do with sled size as well..takes more to stop the new larger units of today.

If studs are in  your future..check to see if your sled has tunnel protectors.   We used hockey sticks up there in the race days..today they are usually aluminium.

We finally organised our QSR homemade jack-shaft tool for the next posting.

Woody's Studs

Woody’s Studs

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Dormant Groomer ..in Muskoka


Some time ago we talked tech stuff here… and it seemed OK..so while we are waiting for the cold…

Next time we will show you how we built a custom jack-shaft  tool to change out the Ski Doo QRS helix without removing the jack-shaft.

In order to stay in the technology and buddy loop, we picked up a 146″ srviper form Bracebridge Yamaha  

Suspension Coupling…

So to get to coupling this is what the skid does. (skid dynamics will be another article)   First…The rear spring and shock is called the rear, the front of the skid shock – spring is called the middle the skis shock spring is called the front

When the throttle is pinned…the force of the rotating tracks rotation pulls the skid violently forward.  This forward motion  has to go somewhere…so it then pushes done hard on the middle arm..pushing the front of the skid into the snow for launch.  The length and angle of the middle arm is designed on HP and application.  (more on that another time)  as this motion continues the back of the sled squats.   The strap and other geometry happens at that time as well.

So..with coupling..see the stop on the Yamaha picture…..once the back scissor hits that stop…it sucks up the front of the skid.   And then..that middle shock – spring begins immediately to work with the rear spring.  So..to better understand.     If you took out the middle shock and replaced it with a flat bar of steel..the skid would stop moving into compression the moment it hit the coupling block.

In other words the middle spring is designed to work with the rear spring on coupling.

Why do we need coupling..well coming off a turn ….you gas it without coupling the skis would lift and you may go straight..coupling simply keeps the skis somewhat on the snow by sucking up the front of the skid.     Most sleds today have deleted the front to rear coupling.   This was tried in snocross racing to stop “kick up” but I don’t think it is used anymore.

So why can’t we just shorten the strap to keep the skis down…Well you could ,,but then they would be dragging 100% of the time.  The clutch would not like that loss (more on that later) and fuel mileage would suffer as it would be revving higher.

I have an excel chart, somewhere,  that we made several years ago that graphs the skid motion on coupling every 10 mm thru its range.  But I can’t find it yet.

 

coupling

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sledarama


Don’t miss the sledarama show in Peterborough 8:30am till 4:00pm Sunday November 23rd

Tons of indoor and many used parts outdoor..come early lots to take in.

Please say “hi” to me Bob Hogg at the show..will be on stage at 1 PM as one of the race legends of Peterborough …. or..bunch of old guys hangin out..

Bob Hogg

Bob Hogg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

slederama

Muskoka Sled…Spread the Word


Permit 2015 2nd

 

 

 

Help Spread Our Good News Story!
Last winter was a huge success for organized snowmobiling in Ontario and we’ve generated incredible momentum heading into the coming winter.

To help snowmobiling grow even more and attract greater support for your club, it’s very important to spread the word about our good news story, so we’re providing you with a pdf file of the article that appeared in the first issue of the OFSC Go Snowmobiling Ontario Magazine. It captures all the high points of last winter’s achievements and is an excellent resource for you to use.  The file can be accessed here.

We highly recommend that you share this article with all your local contacts and advertisers so that every municipality, local business and economic development /tourism office knows that snowmobiling is on a roll!

 

 

How To Buy A Snowmobile


BUYING A SLED

Today’s clean, advanced technology snowmobiles are as quiet, reliable and state of the art as automobiles and offer many features.Typically, new participants could look at a “touring” model in the popular 500 to 600cc range, that comes with electric start, reverse, thumb and hand warmers, high windshield, and mirrors. (Two-up sleds can be used by one or two persons, while two people should never ride on a sled only built to handle one).

Regardless of the make or model, all snowmobiles have the same basic characteristics. What’s different is how each of the major components accomplishes its task. So a “performance” or “muscle” sled will usually have more finely-tuned power, stiffer suspension and aggressive features – like a sports car – while a touring model will have more middle of the road power, a cushier suspension and a more comfortable seat. As with buying a car, shop for the features best suited to your riding expectations, style and experience level that come within your budget range.

Read More at OFSCPICT0013